Monday, October 28, 2013

Independence Day (Sort of) Sept. 11




Ridiculously beautiful and ornate ceiling of what used to be the chapel

We are going back in time, before the Foleys came, to show you pieces of Barcelona that tourists rarely get to see. And it isn't the Fat Tire sign below, which we took a picture of just to show the reach of Colorado's finest brewery, it is the Generalitat de Catalunya and Catalan Independence Day.
the ninth-century Count of Barcelona, Guifré el Pelós—Wilfred the Hairy for anglophones and those with a sense of humor—was wounded in battle (enemy unclear; either the Moors or the Normans), and as he lay on the battlefield Frankish king Louis the Pious dipped four fingers in Wilfred's blood and ran them along Wilfred's golden shield, rewarding his bravery with a new coat of arms. - See more at: http://www.letsgo.com/europe/spain/barcelona/blogs/markwarren/2011/06/06/legend-catalan-flag#sthash.9nvrQObq.dpuf
The original Fat Tire?? I think not...
Yes we waited in a long line

The Generalitat de Catalunya consists of the Parliament, the Presidency of the Generalitat, the Government and the institutions, the Council for Statutory Guarantees, the Ombudsman, the Public Audit Office and the Catalonia Broadcasting Council. So it's kind of like walking through the White House and Congressional buildings, but smaller and more ornate.



Saint Jorge Killing the Barcelona Dragon!
The Courtyard



This statue was so weird we had to take a picture
This figure is actually concave. Trippy.


This building is rarely open to tourists, but on such a day as Catalan's loss of Independence day it is free for all who care to venture in. And it is definitely worth the venture.

The modernist meeting place of Catalunyan powers


Exiting Middle earth
We didn't get to see the President's quarters, but we sauntered through the conference room, the chapel and arms room into a courtyard that looked like it came straight out of Rivendell, and into the huge ballroom that used to be the chapel (before it was relegated to a smaller, less prominent place).
A ridiculously beautiful chandelier

Rivendell and the House of Elrond!


























And the stone lady is so sad that they have lost their freedom. Unfortunately, as she is solidified in stone, even if they do secede she'll still be crying.







The Catalunya Independence day commemorates the defeat of the Aragon Kingdom troops on 11 September 1714 fighting during the War of the Spanish Succession. It reminds them of what they lost and why they hate Spain. Yet Catalunyans don't seem to grasp the fact that saying farewell to Spain would mean they'd have to work a lot harder...Why you ask? Well, although they feel that they're getting the short end of the stick in terms of taxes [and of course other State actions that rankle their nationalist fervor] they would have to develop their own military and international relations which would be exceedingly costly. But hey, I'm no economist.

Historical archetypes of some king and queen.


These paper maché Catalan giants have been used in celebratory procession for centuries. And apparently their revolutionary garb resembled that of Paul Revere.       







After viewing the Generalitat, we walked through the human chain that spanned all of Catalunya (consisting of hundreds of thousands of Catalans spanning 250 miles, yeah, they're serious) to the Parque de la Ciutadella. Passing by the most beautiful statue I've seen in Barcelona (the crying lady below) and the most beautiful fountain that I've ever seen (that will come in a later blog) through the Barcelona version of the Arc de Triunf proudly waiving a gigantic Catalan flag.
Tongue of Fire!
Trees! Knobby branchy trees.


The legend of the Catalan flag is worth a few lines. The ninth-century Count of Barcelona, Guifré el Pelós—Wilfred the Hairy —was wounded in battle by Moors, or Normans, well some kind of enemy at least, and as he lay on the battlefield Frankish king Louis the Pious dipped four fingers in Wilfred's blood and ran them along Wilfred's golden shield, rewarding his bravery with a new coat of arms. This then, the story goes, became the flag of Catalunya. Four bloody finger marks...Not sure if there's a legend of the blue triangle with the star...Maybe it's the reflection of the night's sky in his dying eyes...or maybe something a little more gruesome and less poetic.
the ninth-century Count of Barcelona, Guifré el Pelós—Wilfred the Hairy for anglophones and those with a sense of humor—was wounded in battle (enemy unclear; either the Moors or the Normans), and as he lay on the battlefield Frankish king Louis the Pious dipped four fingers in Wilfred's blood and ran them along Wilfred's golden shield, rewarding his bravery with a new coat of arms. - See more at: http://www.letsgo.com/europe/spain/barcelona/blogs/markwarren/2011/06/06/legend-catalan-flag#sthash.9nvrQObq.dpuf



Plaza Catalunya should always be dressed in black.
What goes better with Catalan independence than fish?

Fun day seeing the true character of Barcelona. Everyone draped in their flags singing, lounging, drinking, eating, making impromptu Castelleres (coming up in another blog) and generally making merry. It seems strange to commemorate a day of utter failure, but hey, it's a reminder to them of who they were, and what they want to be.





Friday, October 18, 2013

Vive le France! Part 2

The view from our back window

With a beautiful cloud-streaked, blue sky and perfect weather we set out from Villemagne-l'Argentière (I neglected to state the name of the little town we were staying in) for a day hike in Les Gorges d'Héric. Who knew there would be rocky, mountainous landscape dotted with fluffy deciduous trees and a snaking river within a 20 minute drive from our little bungalow.

On the "hiking" path walking through the gorge. Lizzy eating icecream.

We "hiked" up the paved walkway and found secluded still water pools. A perfect place to stop for a picnic of Camembert cheese, baguette, wine, and the most delicious grapes. After our delicious meal we kept hiking in search of the "bar" that was supposedly 1.5 kilometers up the hill only to figure out later that the "1.5 kilometers" actually meant the altitude increase, not distance.


Us and the Foleys on our picnic rock.

We then stopped off at a little town on the way back to our even smaller town where there was an impromptu flea market. I bought a very French curtain for only €2! We sat outside of what turned out to be a casino and had coffee in a beautiful plaza. For dinner we ended up going to the restaurant that was right out the front door of our bungalow. It hadn't been open the previous day because the owner was having "personal problems"(?) But some of the lights were on so we knocked and we were told he was in fact open for business. We were the only ones in there all night, and he (the owner) the only employee. The meal was good, but sadly not as good as the duck meal we had made ourselves the previous night. But hey, we had to eat at at least one real French place.
View from the front window


Our last and final day meant driving back to Spain. But we took a detour through Carcassone to see its famous walled city.
The walled city of Carcassonne
Entrance to the walled city where they still have horse and carriage squeezing through the throngs

It was like stepping back into time, well, except for the hordes of tourists and anachronistic shops that have overtaken the interior.
Hey, that grandma and I have the same color shirt! No that was not planned.


I just loved this building
I am a castle junky (i.e. if there's a castle anywhere in the vicinity I will want to do whatever it takes to see it). But alas, there wasn't time to go into the actual castle. So I had to make do with viewing the outside and speculating on the wonders it held within (maybe that's better because I can imagine jousting and secret passages when in reality it's probably just crowns behind a glass partition and wax figurines or something).


The Castle, housing who knows what treasures within!


Our corner table at the little medieval cafe


Ok, so maybe the cafe was not so medieval.

We wandered a bit and found a nice little cafe to sit for a coffee. Then we ran across the church stationed within the city walls. It was like God ordained our timing as we stepped in to some of the most beautiful music I have ever heard. The sound of a trio of vocalists filled the church with song, the harmonious music rebounding and resonating within the stone sanctuary. I just sat there an listened, soaking in their beautiful voices. I don't know if I've ever felt so moved.





Sadly the trio stopped their singing and we left the Church, walked back out to our car, and snakes our way back to Spain. I have to admit that the coffee is actually better in Spain. We made a pit stop at rest stop station for some decent coffee and a game of Foosball which Micah and I won (haha! Take that Foleys).



The Foleys listening to the three vocalists